Arrow Rests: No Sleeping Allowed!

The arrow rest is what it's name implies.  It's where the arrow is hanging out before it's flight into the wild.  Yet simple, it has a critical role in determining the trajectory of the arrow and the amount of friction placed on it. There are few different types of arrow rests that are available.  The most commonly used are the whisker biscuit and the drop away rests.  My first arrow rest was the whisker biscuit and now I'm using a drop away rest.  A whisker biscuit is comprised of a disc of plastic whiskers with an hole in the middle for the arrow to rest. Few of the nice things about the whisker biscuit is that it's inexpensive, has a simple concept, and was very good at keeping the arrow locked in place.  However, when I was using a whisker biscuit with my bow, I was having problems with the rest throwing off the arrow trajectory. No matter how the rest was adjusted the bow wouldn't paper tune.  The archery shop that I frequent also tried a new whisker biscuit and the bow still didn't tune.  I had it switched to a drop away rest and this fixed the problem.  A drop away rest consists of a two prong device that holds the arrow in place and drops away when the bow is fired.  The nice thing about a drop away rest is that it eliminates friction and interference with the arrow trajectory.  One thing I had to get used to was keeping the arrow on the rest with a drop away, whereas the whisker biscuit had a full circle of whiskers around the arrow to keep it in place.

Whisker Biscuit Arrow Rest

Drop Away Arrow Rest





Key Tips:

1. The whisker biscuit arrow rest is an economic choice if your just starting out.
2. Make sure you have an archery shop tune your bow if you plan on changing out your arrow rest.
3. Add felt to the fork of a drop away arrow rest.  This will help eliminate noise when placing an arrow into the rest.

Bow Sights: Aim is the Name of the Game

Sometimes when I'm adjusting my bow sight, I think of primitive hunters using a long bow gauging their shot just by sensing where to aim.  I was at a sports show recently trying to shoot a compound bow with no type of sight whatsoever, and boy was it difficult even trying to hit the darn target. I must give credit to those who can accomplish this feat of instinct.

The bow sight is a device mounted on the riser of the bow that contains pins typically with different colored tips (different colors for different distances).  A bow sight is used in conjunction with a peep sight mounted on the upper half of the bow string.  When aiming the shooter looks at the pin through the peep and the pin is placed over the intended target.  Nowadays, most bows are outfitted with fiber optic lighted pins with built in levels to make sure your bow is not tilting left or right.  Who knows, maybe in the future, sights will have built in range finders with built in nano motors to automatically adjust the pin.  There are two different types of sights for compound bows that I'm aware of, and these are the single pin and multi-pin sights.  Choosing a type of bow sight is based on personal preference. They both have their share of advantages and disadvantages.   The advantage of a single pin sight is the elimination of accidentally choosing the wrong pin, whereas the disadvantage is that it needs to be adjusted when shooting at different distances.  I personally use a single pin sight, because I like the idea that I can choose from a wide range of distances; I also don't have the best vision in the world and I would more than likely choose the wrong pin.  When choosing your sight make sure you try out several types and see which one best fits your liking.  Try to imagine yourself using the sight when your confronted with your prey.  Last thing you want is to be fidgeting with your sight and making noise when an animal is 25 yards in front of you.

Multi-Pin Sight

Single Pin
Sight

Key Tips:

1. Check out several types of sights before settling on one. Understand all the features and try it out at an archery range.
2. When aiming it's best to have the pin floating over the target instead of trying to hold the pin steady.  Not only is this humanly impossible to keep the pin steady, but it also throws the shot off when over compensating to keep it dead still.
3. When sighting in your bow you'll want to adjust the sight pin in the direction the grouping of arrows is from the point you were aiming.  So if the grouping is to the right of the aimed point, then adjust the sight pin towards right. 
4. Make sure your bow sight has a level, this helps keep the bow straight which helps prevent the arrow from shooting off to the right or left.

Terminology:

• Peep Sight - a ring typically made out of rubber that is attached to the bowstring which the shooter looks through at the pin lined up on the intended target.  Technically a peep site is not required but it does dramatically help with shooting accuracy.

Releases and Release Aids: No Fingers Allowed

Hand Held Release

Wrist Strap Release

Most people unfamiliar with archery seem to think all bows are shot with fingers, and this is not always the case, especially when it comes to shooting a compound bow.  In most cases, compound bows are shot with a release or release aid. The reasoning is that when a bow string is released, fingers have the tendency to drag off the string causing the arrow to fly off the string inconsistently, not to mention it's also easier on the fingers and wrist. There are a few different types of releases, the most common are the hand held and wrist strap types.  A hand held release is a mechanical device that consists of a hook or jaws that clips onto the bowstring (or d-loop) and a triggering device to release the hook or jaws from the string. Whereas a  wrist strap release is a mechanical device that consists of a hook or jaws that clip onto the bowstring (or d-loop), a triggering device, and a wrist strap.

 (D-Loop)

Key Tips:

1. When pulling back the bow string with the release, make sure your finger or thumb is located away from the triggering device until you're ready to shoot.
2. Never pull a release towards your face. 
3. Never dry fire a bow, this could lead to personal injury or damage to the bow.
4. Choosing between a hand held and wrist strap release is a personal preference. I use a wrist strap release because the strap aids in pulling back the bowstring, also with a wrist strap release, it's always there when you need it.
5.  If you choose a wrist strap release make sure to go with a buckle strap opposed to a Velcro strap especially when bow hunting; otherwise just about every critter within a mile or so will hear you adjust your strap.
6. Wrist strap releases typically have an adjustable trigger length adjustment.  It is recommended that the trigger be adjusted so that the trigger is between the first joint from your hand and middle segment of the shooting finger. 
7. Most releases have adjustable trigger tension and trigger travel.  Adjust this based on personal preference. Warning: too much of a hair trigger could lead to the release firing prematurely.

Terminology:

• D-loop - this is a piece of rope or special material that is tied to a bowstring that a release attaches to for pulling back the bowstring.
• Trigger Tension - this is the amount of resistance it takes for the trigger to be pushed before releasing the arrow.
• Trigger Travel - this is the distance the trigger needs to travel before releasing the arrow.
   

Selecting Arrows: The Primitive Bullet

Now that you selected your bow, your going to need to buy some arrows.  Word of advice, most buddies will only allow you to mooch their arrows for so long until they start getting mad at you. Selecting arrows can be a daunting task because there are so many different variations which include the type of material, length, fletching, weight, etc. If you're inexperienced it's best to have an archery shop help you select and assemble your first set of arrows.  They have all the tools and experience to make sure you get the most accurate arrow possible.  Arrows can also be purchased pre-assembled  at pre-cut lengths from either archery shops or sporting goods stores.  They typically come in a box and have a table on the box that helps you select the correct arrow (arrow selection tables will be covered in a later post).


Key Tips:

1.  If you're inexperienced have an archery shop help you select and assemble your arrows.
2. Typically arrows are sold in quantities of a 1/2 doz. (approx. $60.00) or 1 doz. (approx. $120.00)  Most archery shops will not sell individual arrows or anything less than a 1/2 doz.
3. Most arrow manufacturers have tables that help you select the correct arrow (more to be covered on this in a later post).
4. Carbon arrows are recommended over aluminum because aluminum arrows are more likely to kink when flexed, whereas carbon is more pliable. There are also wooden arrows but these are typically used by the traditionalist bowhunter using a long bow or recurve bow.
5. The length of the arrow should be at least an inch to two inches past the riser when the bow is at full draw.  If it's too short, the broad head will hit the riser and not allow the bow to be fully drawn.
6. Arrow fletching is typically made out of either feathers or plastic.  They each have their pros and cons and it's more based on preference.  Feather are lighter and more forgiving when damaged, plastic is more durable and quieter.
7. If your just starting out it's best to have the archery shop glue the fletching to your arrows.  Archery shops have special jigs to apply the fletching to the arrow.
8. It is recommended to go with brightly colored fletching that doesn't blend in with the area you are shooting. Imagine trying to find in arrow that has red, yellow, and orange fletching  in the woods during the fall. 
9. Make sure you install field tips on the end of your arrows, these will be needed before you're able to shoot at a target.  They come in various grains (weight).  Try out a few different field tip weights and see which one groups your arrows the best and go with that one.

Terminology:

• Fletching - is the three feathers or vanes that are glued to the shaft of the arrow that controls the flight trajectory.
• Riser - it's the part of the bow that consists of the hand grip, arrow rest, and site.
• Broadhead - is an arrowhead that consists of three sharp blades used for hunting.
• Field Tip - is an arrowhead that is bulled shaped and is used for target shooting.

Selecting a Bow the Right Way

So you want to become a bow hunter and purchase your first bow, but where do you start?  There are many different types of bows to choose from which include long, recurve, and compound bows.  If you're just getting into bow hunting I would recommend going with a compound bow.  These are much easier to use and set up, whereas the other types are more for the traditionalist bowhunter.  There are also many options out there for purchasing a bow which include big box sporting goods stores, mom and pop archery shops, online stores, classifieds, etc.  From my experience I would recommend purchasing a bow from a local archery shop, not only are you supporting a local business, but also you are more likely to get one-on-one personal service. This also allows you to meet with fellow bow hunters that are more than willing to give you advice. The local archery shop I went to was very welcoming and accommodating. Not only did they let me try out anything on their shelves, they also gave me lessons on proper form and how to use the different components of the bow.


Avoid This:

• Rushing to get a bow - make sure you try out several bows before purchasing one, you want to have a bow that is comfortable and enjoyable to shoot.
• Buying a second-hand bow - even though this may be a cheaper option, it's difficult to tell how the previous owner handled the bow and more than likely it's not correctly sized for you.
• Buying from a big box store - even though some of the big box sporting good stores have knowledgeable sales staff, they typically offer less of the one on one service that you would get from a mom and pop archery shop.

Be Aware of This:

• Expect to pay at least a $1000.00 for a complete QUALITY bow set-up.  The bow that I purchased is an economic model from a high quality bow manufacturer and my total set-up was around $1200.00.
• The bow should be sized for you - make sure that your bow is sized for your draw length and that the draw weight is not too difficult for you to pull back.
• The bow should be tuned - at the archery shop the staff should have you shoot through paper to make sure arrows fly straight from the bow (when properly tuned the hole in the paper should be as close to a bullet hole as possible).
• Understand the different components of the bow - make sure the archery shop staff explains how to use and adjust ancillary equipment such as the bow site, arrow rest, stabilizer, and the release.

Bow Hunter In Progress

This blog is intended for those who want to pursue bow hunting but don't know where to begin.  As a novice, I want to share my experiences with others as I pursue my passion for bow hunting.  When I was about eight I received my first bow.  It was a kids long bow and the arrows were an old set from a rummage sale.  I would run around our yard or in the woods across the street and try to shoot everything in site from squirrels to the neighbors cat (just kidding), but never really killed anything.  When I became older I outgrew  my long bow and started pursuing gun hunting with my friends.  Later on I went to college and met up with a young lady that eventually became my wife, bought a house, and had three sons... this didn't leave much time for hunting.  Now I'm in my 30's and over the last few years I've become a bow hunter in progress.  So far I've been on a couple hunts and even seen a few deer. But being out of the loop for so long, I found it difficult to know where to pick up where I left off so many years ago.  I hope to impart some wisdom through this blog- I'll share with you some of the things I've learned and experienced over the past few years to help you become an amateur bow hunter.