Releases and Release Aids: No Fingers Allowed

Hand Held Release

Wrist Strap Release

Most people unfamiliar with archery seem to think all bows are shot with fingers, and this is not always the case, especially when it comes to shooting a compound bow.  In most cases, compound bows are shot with a release or release aid. The reasoning is that when a bow string is released, fingers have the tendency to drag off the string causing the arrow to fly off the string inconsistently, not to mention it's also easier on the fingers and wrist. There are a few different types of releases, the most common are the hand held and wrist strap types.  A hand held release is a mechanical device that consists of a hook or jaws that clips onto the bowstring (or d-loop) and a triggering device to release the hook or jaws from the string. Whereas a  wrist strap release is a mechanical device that consists of a hook or jaws that clip onto the bowstring (or d-loop), a triggering device, and a wrist strap.

 (D-Loop)

Key Tips:

1. When pulling back the bow string with the release, make sure your finger or thumb is located away from the triggering device until you're ready to shoot.
2. Never pull a release towards your face. 
3. Never dry fire a bow, this could lead to personal injury or damage to the bow.
4. Choosing between a hand held and wrist strap release is a personal preference. I use a wrist strap release because the strap aids in pulling back the bowstring, also with a wrist strap release, it's always there when you need it.
5.  If you choose a wrist strap release make sure to go with a buckle strap opposed to a Velcro strap especially when bow hunting; otherwise just about every critter within a mile or so will hear you adjust your strap.
6. Wrist strap releases typically have an adjustable trigger length adjustment.  It is recommended that the trigger be adjusted so that the trigger is between the first joint from your hand and middle segment of the shooting finger. 
7. Most releases have adjustable trigger tension and trigger travel.  Adjust this based on personal preference. Warning: too much of a hair trigger could lead to the release firing prematurely.

Terminology:

• D-loop - this is a piece of rope or special material that is tied to a bowstring that a release attaches to for pulling back the bowstring.
• Trigger Tension - this is the amount of resistance it takes for the trigger to be pushed before releasing the arrow.
• Trigger Travel - this is the distance the trigger needs to travel before releasing the arrow.
   

Selecting Arrows: The Primitive Bullet

Now that you selected your bow, your going to need to buy some arrows.  Word of advice, most buddies will only allow you to mooch their arrows for so long until they start getting mad at you. Selecting arrows can be a daunting task because there are so many different variations which include the type of material, length, fletching, weight, etc. If you're inexperienced it's best to have an archery shop help you select and assemble your first set of arrows.  They have all the tools and experience to make sure you get the most accurate arrow possible.  Arrows can also be purchased pre-assembled  at pre-cut lengths from either archery shops or sporting goods stores.  They typically come in a box and have a table on the box that helps you select the correct arrow (arrow selection tables will be covered in a later post).


Key Tips:

1.  If you're inexperienced have an archery shop help you select and assemble your arrows.
2. Typically arrows are sold in quantities of a 1/2 doz. (approx. $60.00) or 1 doz. (approx. $120.00)  Most archery shops will not sell individual arrows or anything less than a 1/2 doz.
3. Most arrow manufacturers have tables that help you select the correct arrow (more to be covered on this in a later post).
4. Carbon arrows are recommended over aluminum because aluminum arrows are more likely to kink when flexed, whereas carbon is more pliable. There are also wooden arrows but these are typically used by the traditionalist bowhunter using a long bow or recurve bow.
5. The length of the arrow should be at least an inch to two inches past the riser when the bow is at full draw.  If it's too short, the broad head will hit the riser and not allow the bow to be fully drawn.
6. Arrow fletching is typically made out of either feathers or plastic.  They each have their pros and cons and it's more based on preference.  Feather are lighter and more forgiving when damaged, plastic is more durable and quieter.
7. If your just starting out it's best to have the archery shop glue the fletching to your arrows.  Archery shops have special jigs to apply the fletching to the arrow.
8. It is recommended to go with brightly colored fletching that doesn't blend in with the area you are shooting. Imagine trying to find in arrow that has red, yellow, and orange fletching  in the woods during the fall. 
9. Make sure you install field tips on the end of your arrows, these will be needed before you're able to shoot at a target.  They come in various grains (weight).  Try out a few different field tip weights and see which one groups your arrows the best and go with that one.

Terminology:

• Fletching - is the three feathers or vanes that are glued to the shaft of the arrow that controls the flight trajectory.
• Riser - it's the part of the bow that consists of the hand grip, arrow rest, and site.
• Broadhead - is an arrowhead that consists of three sharp blades used for hunting.
• Field Tip - is an arrowhead that is bulled shaped and is used for target shooting.

Selecting a Bow the Right Way

So you want to become a bow hunter and purchase your first bow, but where do you start?  There are many different types of bows to choose from which include long, recurve, and compound bows.  If you're just getting into bow hunting I would recommend going with a compound bow.  These are much easier to use and set up, whereas the other types are more for the traditionalist bowhunter.  There are also many options out there for purchasing a bow which include big box sporting goods stores, mom and pop archery shops, online stores, classifieds, etc.  From my experience I would recommend purchasing a bow from a local archery shop, not only are you supporting a local business, but also you are more likely to get one-on-one personal service. This also allows you to meet with fellow bow hunters that are more than willing to give you advice. The local archery shop I went to was very welcoming and accommodating. Not only did they let me try out anything on their shelves, they also gave me lessons on proper form and how to use the different components of the bow.


Avoid This:

• Rushing to get a bow - make sure you try out several bows before purchasing one, you want to have a bow that is comfortable and enjoyable to shoot.
• Buying a second-hand bow - even though this may be a cheaper option, it's difficult to tell how the previous owner handled the bow and more than likely it's not correctly sized for you.
• Buying from a big box store - even though some of the big box sporting good stores have knowledgeable sales staff, they typically offer less of the one on one service that you would get from a mom and pop archery shop.

Be Aware of This:

• Expect to pay at least a $1000.00 for a complete QUALITY bow set-up.  The bow that I purchased is an economic model from a high quality bow manufacturer and my total set-up was around $1200.00.
• The bow should be sized for you - make sure that your bow is sized for your draw length and that the draw weight is not too difficult for you to pull back.
• The bow should be tuned - at the archery shop the staff should have you shoot through paper to make sure arrows fly straight from the bow (when properly tuned the hole in the paper should be as close to a bullet hole as possible).
• Understand the different components of the bow - make sure the archery shop staff explains how to use and adjust ancillary equipment such as the bow site, arrow rest, stabilizer, and the release.